by Shylaah
This version exclusively for the Confessions of a Jackaholic wiki. Do not copy and paste elsewhere.
Okay, gonna start woking on this after sooo long of not working on it.....
Might not ever be able to do a pattern, but I can get down the grits of
construction.
I have nearly all of the commercially available patterns, and many, scaled patterns near Jack's period of early 18th century. None are SA, all would need some tweaking. My recommendation at this time is the JPRyan 1750 Military frock. It requires the least amount of adjustments. It has good instructions, actually tells you how to do the pleats instead of 'now do the pleats'.....more on the pattern later, fabric, yardage, etc.....
this is just a rough draft.....so no complaints please!!!
What you want to do is FIRST mark up the WRONG side of the
fabrics with chalk before you lay out you pattern to cut. I just make
running arrows all along the length about 5 or 6 inches apart....
Then when you cut out the pattern, allow very wide seam allowances.
Regular patterns give you 5/8 inch, that is woefully small
for working with a chunky fabric like the ebony. So leave at
least 1 inch, and 1 to 1 1/2 on bias edges--curves, arm hole, ect....
Then transfer all seamlines and markings to the fabric. Transfer them to the WRONG side of the coat fabric, and to the RIGHT side of the lining fabric. The ones on the coat fabric are mainly for guidance, and I recommend you do it with tailor's chalk. Use a good dressmakers transfer paper to mark the lining as it needs to be very clear and distinct. You do all this for both the coat fabric and the lining fabric.
Cut the interfacings and mark them. You need interfacing for the coat front, the back vent, -- I'll mark out a pattern piece/s indicating where later....interfacing for the cuffs and the pocket flaps.
Lay the pieces out on a large enough surface that they are all on there not hanging over the edge anywhere. Lay the interfacings on the pieces they go with matching up the seam lines. Smooth and smooth and smooth these pieces out and together. Scatter pin the interfacing down to keep it in place while you stitch it down. stitching illustration later...
When you finish the interfacings, time to do the linings. Lay a lining piece together with each coat piece, WRONG sides together. Again, lay the big pieces-- coat fronts, backs, on a large enough surface that they are all on there not hanging over the edge anywhere.
Match up the seam lines and markings and scatter pin to hold things together while you do the bastings....where/how to baste illustration later...
Now you can handle the coat fabric and lining as one piece. You decide on which way you want to finish your seams. AT this point you can just sew it as though it was only one piece of fabric and finish off the seams mordern or historical. The way I did the seams was to roll back the lining and stitch only the coat fabric, trim and press open that seam, then trim and turn under the seam allowance on the lining and blind stitch the lining seam, then went along each side of the seam about 1/2 to 3/8 inch out from the seam line and did a tiny back stitch about 1/4 inch apart.
All the edges, the fronts, the pleat edges, the back vent edges, turn the coat fabric on the seam line and baste it down. Turn the lining seam allowance in until it's about 1/8 inch inside the coat fabric edge and stitch along the edges with a prick stitch.....illustration later of tiny back stitch and prick stitch later.....
Assembly things more or less in the order the pattern tells you to. All edges receive the prick stitch either as you go along or after final assembly....
The hem is the last thing to do. I suggest you take out all the bastings and let the coat hang for a couple of weeks for it to 'sag out' on all those bias curves in the skirt pleats, the measure and mark your hem line. The hem is done like all other edges, turning in the coat fabric, then turning in the lining shorter.....I used the tiny back stitch to do the hem, cause I like to do that stitch and I like the way it feel like little bumpies when you run your finger along it.....
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